Certain friends have been telling (whoops, I meant asking) me to blog my savoury recipes for a good long while now. I didn’t know how that would sit alongside my cakes, but in the end I decided both could, and in fact should, happily coexist on here. I don’t live on cake. I eat healthily most of the time, with cake as an occasional treat.
So here's my first offering: a savoury triumvirate that will warm your bones. Perfect fodder for a cold snap like this. Or a spot of romantic dining. Happy Valentine's!!!
Oxtail stew with star anise and cinnamon (serves 6-10)
Although this stew requires a full day from start to finish, it isn’t time consuming as it needs very little hands-on attention or babysitting throughout the process. Practice patience and you will be richly rewarded for your efforts. It improves with keeping so, if you can, plan ahead and make it a day or two in advance.
I made this and the accompaniments to bring in Hogmanay 2016. It’s perfect winter celebration food. Exceptionally rich (a little goes a long way), flavourful, comforting. With two veg accompaniments as here, I find a ladle per person is enough. From memory, I think it made 11 ladles, so could feed as many as that.
1kg oxtail (about 1 tail), cut into slices 4–5cm thick
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1-2 tablespoons olive oil/knob of butter/dripping/lard
3 medium onions, sliced
400ml red wine
3 star anise
2 x 4inch cinnamon sticks
4 bay leaves
20 black peppercorns
Thinly pared zest of 1 orange
Season the oxtail with salt and pepper. Heat the oil/knob of butter/dripping/lard in a large, heavy based saucepan and fry the meat over a medium-high heat (in batches if necessary, so as not to overcrowd the pan) until browned on all sides. Remove the browned oxtail with a slotted spoon/tongs and set aside.
Reduce the heat to low and gently cook the onions in the pan for 15–20 minutes, until soft and translucent. In the meantime, if you’re using a slow cooker, lightly brush the base with olive oil to prevent sticking, and switch to the auto/medium setting to preheat. If baking in a casserole dish, preheat the oven to 120C/250F/Gas Mark ½.
Once the onions are ready, return the meat to the pan, then pour in the wine, add the star anise, cinnamon, bay leaves, peppercorns, orange zest and enough passata to just cover the meat. Raise the heat and bring everything to a slow simmer.
Transfer everything to the preheated slow cooker at this point, and cook on medium for about 6 hours, stirring occasionally. If you’re finishing it in the oven, transfer everything to a large casserole dish, cover with the lid and place in the preheated oven. If leaving on the stove, lower the heat to cook very gently (a very gentle simmer, just the odd bubble or two), with the lid cocked open just very slightly. In each case, cook for about 6 hours, stirring occasionally. When it is ready, the meat should be falling off the bone.
Remove the meat and set aside. Once it’s cooled sufficiently, take all the flesh off the bones; every last bit of meat and fat that you can. Transfer the meat to a bowl/container and add just enough of the gravy to cover. Allow to cool and refrigerate. In the meantime, to further enrich the gravy, return the bones and any pieces of fat to the slow cooker (or casserole dish in the oven) and cook with the lid on for another 12 hours or so/preferably overnight. (If you cooked on the stove for phase one, and don’t have a slow cooker, do this last stage in the oven.)
The next morning, pass the gravy through a colander set over a wide-based saucepan to catch the liquid (select the widest saucepan you have as that will speed evaporation - see the next paragraph). An important note here: if you have any remnants stuck to the base of your slowcooker/casserole dish, leave them there; don’t add them in as they will add a burnt unpleasant flavour!
Pick the star anise, cinnamon, bay leaves and orange zest out of the colander and discard. Also remove the bones - this time they should be as clean as a whistle, all the goodness and flavour transferred to the gravy. Set the strained onions aside.
Bring the gravy to a boil, then turn the heat down to a fast simmer and reduce until it is thick and glossy. (You’re aiming to reduce it to about one third to one half of its original volume.)
Once the gravy has reduced sufficiently, return the reserved meat and onions to the pan. Check the seasoning and heat to serve.
Celery mash (serves 4)
600g peeled potatoes, chopped into large dice
300g celery, chopped into large dice
25g butter (optional)
30g milk (optional)
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Add potatoes to boiling salted water. Bring back to the boil and reduce heat to a simmer. Cook partially covered for 8 minutes. Add celery, bring back to a simmer and continue to cook for another 8 minutes or until the veg are tender all the way through. The exact cooking time will depend on the size of the dice, but the veg must be tender all the way through or the final mash will be lumpy. Drain the vegetables through a colander, reserving water for stock/soup. Return vegetables to the pan and cook on a low heat to dry them out a little, shaking every now and then to prevent sticking. Transfer to blender, add freshly ground black pepper, butter and milk if using. Blend for several minutes until you have a completely smooth pureé. Check seasoning.
When ready to use, return to a pan, fully covered with a lid, and cook on a low heat until hot through, stirring every now and then to prevent sticking.
Salt-massaged kale, Brussels sprout and cherry salad (serves 4)
35g dried sour cherries, chopped roughly (if you don’t have any in, or can’t get hold of them, use sultanas or raisins)
40g cherry vinegar
150g kale, destalked and leaves torn into rough bits (will give about 100g fronds torn from stems and 50g stems – save the stems and steam as a green veg)
90g Brussels sprouts, tough outer skins removed, tailed and shredded finely (will give about 70g trimmed weight)
¼ tsp finely ground sea salt
90g spinach leaves
10g olive oil
20g lemon juice
5g umé plum vinegar
10g Dijon mustard
Freshly ground black pepper
15g green pistachio kernels, roasted and slivered*
Soak chopped cherries/sultanas/raisins in the cherry vinegar overnight. 1-2 hours before you need the salad, massage the salt into the torn kale and shredded Brussels until the colour has changed to bright green and it takes on a wet/cooked appearance. Cover with cling film and set aside. (This can be done in advance, up to a day or so.)
Meantime, make the dressing. Strain the cherries from the cherry vinegar. Add the cherry vinegar and rest of the salad dressing ingredients to a small bowl and whisk to emulsify (or shake in a jar). Check and adjust the flavour to suit to your personal taste, e.g. add more lemon juice/white wine vinegar for extra acidity, more oil for less, more cherry vinegar for sweetness, more umé plum vinegar for saltiness.
Add the soaked cherries/sultanas/raisins and dressing to the salad at least half an hour prior to serving, to allow the flavours to mingle. Immediately prior to serving, toss in the spinach leaves and scatter with the slivered pistachios.
*If you can’t find green pistachio kernels locally, they are available online from Ottolenghi.
Alternative serving suggestions:
- Any vegetable mash and steamed greens or boiled carrots (if using carrots, make the mash with a different veg)